Recent content by PaulL

Why do you till it if you're not planting? Surely you just hog it, then hog it again next time it grows? Things you mow turn into grass eventually, things you till probably grow all sorts of weeds, and when you till some of your topsoil can blow away. I'd only till if I was actually planting...

The L3010 is a nice looking machine. Without upending everything.......it'd replace your grand-L and probably SCUT as well. The Cat mini-ex also looks pretty good. I have a small Takeuchi that I inherited, and it's an excellent machine. I have a tilting bucket (which requires a 3rd function)...

Looks to me like the thing you're lacking is a big tractor (Grand-L size) with a big loader and forks. Then organising your barn gets a lot more interesting - you can stack things up and move them around way more easily. Adding a loader to your existing Grand-L isn't really practical (too...

MF135s and MF148s are reasonably common in NZ, and not too expensive (around NZ$10K / US$6K) . All were Perkins. But I understand that's not as true in the USA.

My feel is that a hobby tractor should do something different than what you have. If you're OK with gear drive, I'd get an old Massey 135 or 148. Perkins diesel (if you can get them in the USA, somewhere said US got gas models), reliable enough, big enough to do interesting things, nice looking...

Usually additional rear hydraulic outputs. They may come with none standard, or they may come with only one or two. To run top and tilt cylinders you need two, to run a hydraulic wood splitter you need a constant flow output (often not standard).

I had a similar issue in NZ, I bought an older BX2350 without a loader, and wanted a loader. I ended up buying new. It worked out OK for me, but in reality you're often better to sell the machine you have and buy a machine with a loader. Getting a used loader is hard, and if you buy a new...

People say that, which frustrates me. So I made video a while back so I didn't have to keep having the argument. It is actually 1 minute off, 2 minutes on.

On my B2601, my mower is 1 minute off, 2 minutes on. Drive over deck makes a huge difference, no pulling the mower out sideways, and I can do it on the grass or any other terrain. Yes, I get on the ground to connect the driveshaft, but that's only a few seconds. Newer MMM are easier to deal with.

Again, depends what you're doing. A one-time move to your house is doable - pay someone. If it then stays home for everymore, they're practical. If you plan to take it places then it's clearly unworkable.

An L would be great, but a B would do most of what you describe. You're budget limited, so you'll have to buy what comes up probably. I'd keep an eye on Bs as well. @pigdoc you say "Are the Kubota F-series mowing machines any good?". Yes. Yes they are. They're a mowing weapon, but very much a...

Depending on what you need to dig, you can buy very large excavators for not much money. Anything that's hard for people to transport is basically worth only scrap value when the first owner is done with it. If you have the space and inclination, there are some bargains to be found there. But...

On some of your questions up thread. In general a small Kubota is built to run at design revs (aka PTO revs, aka almost wide open throttle) for 8-12 hours a day, and should be good for 4-5,000 hours of that use (probably an awful lot more). Tractors aren't cars, if you were using one as a mower...

I mentioned on another thread a different question but similar answers. The standard bucket on any Kubota is generally about what it'll lift of dry gravel or similar material. All Kubotas therefore will lift a literal bucket load - of whatever size bucket they put on them standard. And they work...

I know I'm mostly the only one interested....but met with the sales guy from the dealer today. He came out to our place (he drives past on the way to work), had a coffee, walked me through the options on the MX, and explained why a Grand-L probably isn't the right machine for my uses. Offered a...