Hydraulic powered pump for concrete mixer

Lowlysubaruguy · Jan 12, 2026

GreensvilleJay said:
seems most of the 3ph mixers do NOT allow you to spin to empty ! Even watch a couple videos... man that is a NO SALE to me. Bodging into SSQA looks real GOOD now. Probably need so kind of semi adjustable 'flow control' to fine tune the speed ? Maybe $500 in motor +'stuff'.

Yeah I was really dissapointed I had a big event lined up special ordered this thing drove 150 miles to get it in time. Hooked it up mixed my first load of concrete then unloaded it with a FN hand sized hoe and a shovel finished what I had to and rented a big gas unit from Portland.

Im going to work this out and then post images and what works or not im already $1700 into that mixer and fuel. Another grand if I have to. But where this is going if I can make it work it will alter my life plans there. So its worth getting it to work for me.

Lowlysubaruguy · Jan 12, 2026

TheOldHokie said:
Should be EZ-PZ and not terribly expensive. What type of input shaft on the mixer? Is it 1-3,/8 spline, round with key, or something else? Can you post a picture of the PTO hookup on the mixer?

Dan

Im struggling to load more than one picture. My tablet has some resistance to the force. The shafts not splined uses a bolt for a shear pin I bet. I cant remember it’s been so long since I gave up on it. I will get an accurate measurement soon. But this is what im working with. Im a fabricator of sorts so this wont be a big hurdle if I can find the right hydraulic motor for it. I have a mill and a lathe and am pretty creative.

Any way if you have any input on a hydraulic motor it is greatly appreciated.

I do remember one thing about this thing mixer. The PTO shaft couples to the mixer with a shear pin at the mixer. Not at the PTO if it sheared a pin the shaft is still under power it’s a really stupid design. Imagine being out there when it shears the pin the shafts flailing around beating you and your tractor to death while you’re trying to get around and shut it all down. I was not really happy with my purchase. I never sheared a pin to experience that thank god. Probably should have complained to the Kubota dealer I bought it from but I ate my disappointment and moved on. However if I can make this work now it’s kind of a game changer where it’s going. Concrete and holes are going to be a big part of my net couple years. Hopefully you or someone here can help me get this in motion. Being able to dump the entire drum is important.

TheOldHokie · Jan 12, 2026

Looks like a piece of cake. Whats the diameter of the shaft?

Dan

Lowlysubaruguy · Jan 12, 2026

TheOldHokie said:
Looks like a piece of cake. Whats the diameter of the shaft?

Dan

Ill have to check tomorrow I had no time today heres a motor on EBAY or something like it this ones super cheap worries me a little. But something like this its 660 RPM high torque 1” shaft I cna easily make a coupler that fits each side with a shear pin make it so the motor bolts into a plate on the 3 point SSQA adapter I will either buy and modify or just make.

It’s just two bolts to remove it for servicing needs or if I damage the coupler or what have you. But in reality it may never need removed.

North Idaho Wolfman · Jan 12, 2026

I'll be interested in what the powers that have more knowledge than me on Hydraulics and hydraulic motors will say.
Because my understanding is that that motor would require 15GPM to get it to run at a medium speed.
you have nowhere near that flow out of the third function.

And you can get it cheaper if it will work.

Hydraulic motor link

TheOldHokie · Jan 12, 2026

North Idaho Wolfman said:
I'll be interested in what the powers that have more knowledge than me on Hydraulics and hydraulic motors will say.
Because my understanding is that that motor would require 15GPM to get it to run at a medium speed.
you have nowhere near that flow out of the third function.

And you can get it cheaper if it will work.

Hydraulic motor link

At 3.5 CID it needs a shade over 8 GPM to produce 540 RPM. The arithmetic:

3.5 x 540 = 1890 ci/min
1890 / 231 = 8.2 GPM

Dan

TheOldHokie · Jan 12, 2026

Lowlysubaruguy said:
Ill have to check tomorrow I had no time today heres a motor on EBAY or something like it this ones super cheap worries me a little. But something like this its 660 RPM high torque 1” shaft I cna easily make a coupler that fits each side with a shear pin make it so the motor bolts into a plate on the 3 point SSQA adapter I will either buy and modify or just make.

It’s just two bolts to remove it for servicing needs or if I damage the coupler or what have you. But in reality it may never need removed.

Keep it simple. You can use a standard foot mount attached to the mixer or just hang it on the shaft with a torque arm. About a gazillion PTO sprayer pumps in use with the torque arm system

Dan

Lowlysubaruguy · Jan 12, 2026

GreensvilleJay said:
hay ,some guys like to bodge !!! though a proper PTO shaft is an easy solution.

Doesn’t change the fact that the three point hitch wont dump half the load of concrete. It’s almost worse than hand mixing it in a wheel barrow.

Lowlysubaruguy · Jan 12, 2026

TheOldHokie said:
At 3.5 CID it needs a shade over 8 GPM to produce 540 RPM. The arithmetic:

3.5 x 540 = 1890 ci/min
1890 / 231 = 8.2 GPM

Dan

OK look at this for an option

Im struggling to find an 8 GPM motor thats maxed at 540 RPMS ish I found something that might work at least in my train of thought. RPMs and flow rates range higher but its lowest ranges are likely to be about right for what I will actaully need it to spin because it did not need to run the tractor at a high RPM to get it to spin about right for mixing.

Its shows a flow rate of 2 GPM to 14 GPM with max RPMs around 500 but continuous RPMS 400 im thinking this might work well. I believe this one has a 1” output shaft and 1/2” inlet and outlet sizes which is more in line with the auxiliary feed I have. This may allow me to run tractor RPMS between 1500 and 2000 RPMs to control the drum speed and still not have my tractor go into regen as well. Something that requires a lower RPM might be a headache there as well. My tractor likes to go into regen below 1400 RPMs for extended run times

Lowlysubaruguy · Jan 12, 2026

hagrid said:
I should just keep my mouf shut...

We had a 3-pointe PTO driven mixer for the 8N back in the day. Even had a single acting hydraulic cylinder for the top link.

It was understood that the driveline geometry wouldn't support being live during dumping because of joint articulation constraints. You simply disengaged the PTO and dumped the quantity you desired via the top link action.

Mebbe pictures will help me understand the shortcomings?

The three point hitch will only dump about half the load of concrete its almost worse than mixing in a wheel barrow by hand. Regardless of the driveline angle. Which is why mounting this on the loader and powering it via hydraulics is about the only way it’s mixer will ever be worth anything.

PaulL · Jan 12, 2026

Why do you need 540rpm? Seems to me the mixer isn't spinning at 540 rpm (although that'd be a sight to see). It's got reduction gearing, which is because your PTO makes 540 rpm, not because it needs the torque.

So, get a motor that'll run about 25 or 50 rpm, which is probably what the mixer actually needs. Take off the reduction gearing, and direct connect it. Mixers don't need a lot of torque so far as I can tell, and hydraulics are typically pretty high torque motors. If you're looking for a lower speed motor you'll find better/cheaper options perhaps?

Can you spin it up and count the revolutions for a minute? There's no way a concrete mixer turns once per second, I'd hazard a guess it's once per 2 seconds, or 30 rpm.

Runs With Scissors · Jan 13, 2026

GreensvilleJay said:
hay ,some guys like to bodge !!!

Hey I ~~resent~~ resemble that…..

GreensvilleJay · Jan 13, 2026

curious I surfed the web and found this website.
here's some nice online help !

Hydraulic Motor Calculator | Evolution Motion Solutions

Explore hydraulic motor calculations and formulas for precise engineering solutions, all in one place with Evolution’s engineering toolbox.

www.evolutionmotion.com

Speed is based on GPM, Torque is based on PSI

FYI... Speed is based on GPM, Torque is based on PSI

The 1st equation, you change the 'rpm' to 60 , and it says about 1 GPM needed for a 3.7(?) motor
You'll need a 'slow diverter' for speed control, or a very small displacement motor.

You'll also need a 'Lovejoy' coupling as most motors need to be 'direct coupled' ( ie inline) and NOT 'belt driven' which means 'side load' or some term. The latter mans a force put upon the motors shaft,tends to 'bend' the shaft..a really bad thing. That's why you almost always see pumps and motors being direct(inline) driven.

TheOldHokie · Jan 13, 2026

Lowlysubaruguy said:
OK look at this for an option

Im struggling to find an 8 GPM motor thats maxed at 540 RPMS ish I found something that might work at least in my train of thought. RPMs and flow rates range higher but its lowest ranges are likely to be about right for what I will actaully need it to spin because it did not need to run the tractor at a high RPM to get it to spin about right for mixing.

Its shows a flow rate of 2 GPM to 14 GPM with max RPMs around 500 but continuous RPMS 400 im thinking this might work well. I believe this one has a 1” output shaft and 1/2” inlet and outlet sizes which is more in line with the auxiliary feed I have. This may allow me to run tractor RPMS between 1500 and 2000 RPMs to control the drum speed and still not have my tractor go into regen as well. Something that requires a lower RPM might be a headache there as well. My tractor likes to go into regen below 1400 RPMs for extended run times

At 8 GPM input the motor in your previous post is maxed at 528 RPM. Does 12 RPM really matter? Seems like it checks all your boxes.

Dan

TheOldHokie · Jan 13, 2026

GreensvilleJay said:
curious I surfed the web and found this website.
here's some nice online help !

Hydraulic Motor Calculator | Evolution Motion Solutions

Explore hydraulic motor calculations and formulas for precise engineering solutions, all in one place with Evolution’s engineering toolbox.

www.evolutionmotion.com

Speed is based on GPM, Torque is based on PSI

FYI... Speed is based on GPM, Torque is based on PSI

The 1st equation, you change the 'rpm' to 60 , and it says about 1 GPM needed for a 3.7(?) motor
You'll need a 'slow diverter' for speed control, or a very small displacement motor.

You'll also need a 'Lovejoy' coupling as most motors need to be 'direct coupled' ( ie inline) and NOT 'belt driven' which means 'side load' or some term. The latter mans a force put upon the motors shaft,tends to 'bend' the shaft..a really bad thing. That's why you almost always see pumps and motors being direct(inline) driven.

Speed is based on flow and displacement.

Torque is based on pressure and displacement.

Smaller displacement = higher speed and lower torque

Larger displacenent =:slower speed and higher torque.

In this applicstion speed control is via engine RPM not the control valve.

Hang the motor on the shaft and you dont need a flex coupling.

Dan

Lowlysubaruguy · Jan 13, 2026

I probably wasn’t clear enough In my original post.

For starters using the rear mounted three point and PTO driveshaft to power it, the PTO has to be turned off and you can still only dump about 50% of the concrete and its almost worse than mixing concrete in a wheel barrow. In reality it is worthless as it is. And was a total waste of money.

Now for todays delima while I think theres a front mounted three point hitch with a hydraulic motor combination that may in fact be the perfect match. I have come up with another concern before I start ordering parts. I need to make sure I can get enough height to fully dump the drum as it’s going to stick out in front of the loader arms quite a ways. Im going to do some measurements over the weekend and clamp a board or two in place and try and check this before continuing. I am sure with a fully loaded mixer that far out in front of the tractor the back hoe will have to be on the rear to keep it from tipping over. Which isnt really an issue but for sure a counter weight will be required.

Hopefully it all works out id really like to have a concrete mixer where this is headed and i can get it al in the same shipping container now.

hagrid · Jan 13, 2026

Lowlysubaruguy said:
I probably wasn’t clear enough In my original post.

For starters using the rear mounted three point and PTO driveshaft to power it, the PTO has to be turned off and you can still only dump about 50% of the concrete and its almost worse than mixing concrete in a wheel barrow. In reality it is worthless as it is. And was a total waste of money.

Now for todays delima while I think theres a front mounted three point hitch with a hydraulic motor combination that may in fact be the perfect match. I have come up with another concern before I start ordering parts. I need to make sure I can get enough height to fully dump the drum as it’s going to stick out in front of the loader arms quite a ways. Im going to do some measurements over the weekend and clamp a board or two in place and try and check this before continuing. I am sure with a fully loaded mixer that far out in front of the tractor the back hoe will have to be on the rear to keep it from tipping over. Which isnt really an issue but for sure a counter weight will be required.

Hopefully it all works out id really like to have a concrete mixer where this is headed and i can get it al in the same shipping container now.

What were you using for a top link on the 3PH? I ask because our mixer (sold) looks identical to yours and you could dump the entire content from the operator station.

TheOldHokie · Jan 13, 2026

hagrid said:
What were you using for a top link on the 3PH? I ask because our mixer (sold) looks identical to yours and you could dump the entire content from the operator station.

If the goal is to maximize tipping angle a " long stroke" hydraulic top link and hydraulic motor would seem to address all concerns. Chose a top link that at fully retracted puts the bowl at mixing angle. With that geometry:

There is no PTO shaft to deal with
The tipping angle is increased
You can run the bowl at max tipping angle.

A little experimentation with a length of rope and a tape measure should quantify that.

Dan

Lowlysubaruguy · Jan 13, 2026

hagrid said:
What were you using for a top link on the 3PH? I ask because our mixer (sold) looks identical to yours and you could dump the entire content from the operator station.

I do have a hydraulic top link but it did not move far enough it’s possible a longer cylinder or an extension for it may help or fix it. I will start by hooking it back up and seeing what it takes to get a full dump from the rear three point in which case a hydraulic motor will cure my driveline issue.

TheOldHokie · Jan 13, 2026

Lowlysubaruguy said:
I do have a hydraulic top link but it did not move far enough it’s possible a longer cylinder or an extension for it may help or fix it. I will start by hooking it back up and seeing what it takes to get a full dump from the rear three point in which case a hydraulic motor will cure my driveline issue.

You can use a piece of rope in place of a top link to figure out the retracted and extended lengths.

Dan

Hydraulic powered pump for concrete mixer

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