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Digikey is a US company. You should get the parts within a day (a few years ago I got parts from them to Ireland within 24 hours). And 35A is certainly more promising than the 20A Kubota relay that is burning out.

Higher margin on spare parts than on sales items.

Ouch. Relay is the correct spelling, of course. This is as bad as "Kabota" :ROFLMAO: p.s.: "Relais" is the German spelling for "Relay". See https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relais

Ok, I do not know how ot is implemented on the G2160. My post was aimed at the G1800. And yes, I thought "useless" as well when those switches prevented my G1900 from starting but I am sure you too may reconsider if one of those switches stops your tractor when you fall off and does not drive...

I have seen an extra relais in front of the starter a few times, mine had that too, but I think it is only covering up a problem with the relais in the combination box which will fail later. The extra relais should be put in long before the problems start, but who would do that? One guy here...

That is correct. And you said in your post #8 to check the starter first and work from there. But the original poster has not come back after that; I hope he has not gone on a shopping spree with expensive parts :oops:

They are not microswitches, see link in post #13. And the current through the switches is very small. The starter current is going through a power relais, so is the stop solenoid current.

Yes, brake switch can be adjusted. Brake switch is normally closed while the PTO and seat switches are normally open. The insides and how to repair a brake switch you find here: Link G1900 brake switch repair

Very good point (y) That's one of the reasons I am asking here, I find it hard to believe what the seller was telling me.

Hello, I was talking to a seller of a G1900S and he claimed that the frames of this type tractor always break (like on the one he was trying to sell). Can anybody that had been working on a lot of those tractors confirm / deny such claim? The only weak point I can see is the fairly large...

Yes, I had that problem and built my own combination box electronics: Link combination box electronics But lets diagnose the problem first, there still is the starter solenoid and the three safety switches to check. Did you click on the envelope in the top right screen corner?

There is three safety switches (brake, pto, seat) that affect the starter through the combination box. Often the relais in the combination box are burnt out, leading to the starter working intermittently and then not at all. My tractor had that problem at 6000 hours, yours seem a bit young for...

What do you mean by "starter spins but it still won’t turn over."? I interpret that as the starter solenoid not engaging the pinion into the flywheel. Did you short the 12V to the fat rotor current contact or the small starter solenoid contact?

Hmmm.... is it possible you forgot a "subtle detail" in your story? :oops: Looking forward seeing the end result ! (y):giggle:

Go for it ! Not that the money goes to the state, like from this poor Nigerian man, that we had in the "Daily Chuckle" (could not find the picture).

Plenty of flesh there. You can always cut a slightly larger thread of your choice. Get a plug and a copper seal ring matching the thread you cut, although I love having a drain cock there with a hose connection, makes coolant changes a doodle and mess free. Or, as I said before, get the Kubota...

Forget Kubota in this case. Measure the outside diameter of the groove and its depth. Multiply the depth by 1.15 to 1.20. That gives you the o-ring cord diameter. Subtract that twice from the outside diameter and you have the inside diameter (O-rings are normally inside diameter x cord...

If you buy the plug / drain valve from Kubota you can get the thread size from this. I would suspect it is metric, but no point speculating.

You can fix the original one too. It's only resistive wire and a float with a sliding contact. Some replacement ones may need electronics to make it work with the existing instrument; it may not be possible to adjust the range just with passive components.

There is a good bit of coolant left in the engine if you do not take that drain plug off. On my tractor it is a valve, I could imagine it was the same on yours and it broke off. Maybe this helps: Link D722 drain valve repair If your block is cast iron and the valve aluminium, like on mine, it...